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Armageddon

5.12-, Sport,  Avg: 3.1 from 21 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Big Picture Gully > Big Picture Wall

Description

Strenuous start, followed by fun technical climbing. Crux is right of last bolt - be ready to move around a bit and step high.

Gorillas in the Mist (13a) is the continuation with an additional three bolts beyond the first anchors.

Location

Right of Clockwork Orange.
Left of Something Wicked this Way Comes.

Protection

6 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Julia
Durango, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The bottom of this climb is mind blowing! The top and crux section is very hard, especially now that the last bolt has been chopped, safe fall but a big one if you miss the moves. Sep 5, 2015
[Hide Comment] Definitely harder than 12a below the first chains, and so squeezed at the bottom its lame. The unpleasant tweaking at the low roof was a bummer. The extension was brilliant and hard- compression moves with horrid feet. Oct 14, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] I have to say, the crux of this route (going to the anchors above last bolt) may very well be the best, nicest, greatest sequence of moves I've done in Spearfish Canyon after 2 weeks of climbing here.

You get there, you nothing at all and have no clue as to how the hell you're supposed to reach those anchors. Then little by little, a plan starts to form in your mind. However it likely involves feet so high and such a shitty right hand that it may feel more like wishfull thinking than a viable plan. But, if you're delicate enough and your balance is just right, you'll be amazed to see it will actually work!

The rest of the route is good as well, somewhat easier save for the bottom crux which I found just as hard (although more burly, which above is almost entirely technical). Just wish it were a bit longer. Aug 5, 2017
[Hide Comment] All around great route! However, CLIMBER BEWARE! It feels harder then 12a! Aug 23, 2020