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Routes in Middle Marker Area

Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Stahl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Make Believe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 125 ft
FA: Vernon Phinney, Bob Archbold 1987
Page Views: 627 total, 12/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Jul 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Climb an easy right slanting crack (alternate start for Weird Water) past 1 bolt, then go straight up a thin vertical crack (small cam or nut) for ten feet to a crux bulge protected by a well-placed bolt. Climb over the bulge and follow another right angling crack for another ten feet, then follow 3 or 4 more well placed bolts to the chain anchors at the top.

Location

30 feet left of Weird Water. The Little Dripper right-slanting bolted crack start is often used as an alternate start for Weird Water.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts, a few small cams for the cracks, and chain anchors at the top. Descent: Rappel 125 ft on one 70M rope -- probably requires two ropes if using 60M or shorter rope.

Photos

Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.8+
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.8+
awesome route, similar to weird water with a little more variation (cracks), more difficulty, and a bit more spicy. i don't think it quite warrants a pg-13 but it was at the edge of my comfort zone for sure. the route is very sustained so be ready for what it's about to throw at you. get on it! Jul 12, 2013