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Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 670 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kevin McDermott on Jul 7, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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The climb starts on a small ledge at the furthest left section of the cliff, tucked up and away from the base of the main face and hidden by some small trees. Ascend the initial face up and to the right of a large block ledge, crossing over a small chimney. Once on top of this ledge, climb the steep lichen-covered face that ascends directly beside the very left-most edge of the cliff. A series of horizontal cracks provide decent gear and holds. The face eventually crosses a white streak of rock and is split vertically by a very thin crack. Here, very delicate and crimpy face climbing with a little exposure gains the top.


Scramble up through some gnarled roots and small conifers trees on the far left end of the cliff to reach the base of the climb.


Takes a standard rack. Small to mid-sized cams are desirable, along with micro-cams, if you have them, to protect the thin crack near the top of the climb. Small gear may also be necessary to build a gear anchor at the top.


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