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Routes in Prusik Peak

Der Sportsman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solid Gold T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Face Beckey-Davis Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stanley-Burgner Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Dan Davis
Page Views: 6,000 total, 111/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

The original line up the striking south face of Prusik Peak.

Pitch 1: Climb up the chimney located left of two prominent Vs on the south face. At the top of the chimney move left and climb up on knobs to a belay. 5.7

Pitch 2&3: Climb rightward up steep slab and ascend a long chimney gully until you reach a large ledge (Snafflehound ledge) 5.7

Pitch 4: Traverse right on the ledge to a small tree and then up a short steep step to the base of the crux. 5.5

Pitch 5: Climb a shallow dihedral. You will be forced to the right, until an overhang forces you to make a step-across to the left into a flaring jam crack climbing this over a buldge. Above the buldge the climbing eases off on face holds and chicken heads. Belay at next ledge. 5.9

Pitch 6: Continue up the crack system (steep gully) bypassing a chockstone on the left to the small notch east of the summit horn 5.8

Pitch 7A: From the notch, descend a few feet on the north side and step right onto a small ramp. Ascend ramp and cross a delicate friction traverse ending in a corner. Ascend a good jam crack to the summit. 5.8

Pitch 7B: From the notch, ascend left up the obvious crack on the wall leading to the summit. 5.10

Descent:
From the summit, descend the North face rap route, marked by a bolt and tat from the summit. Can be done with a single 60m rope

Protection

Gear to 4", doubles .5-2. Full set of chocks

Location

Located to climbers right of the start of the Stanley-Bergner route. Look for the two large Vs and the chimney. Can't miss it
We climbed the double-cracks crux pitch shown in cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… and some other trip reports. It was close enough to the text description here that I suspect we climbed the intended pitch, but my description differs a little.

First, about the traverse along Snafflefold Ledge (P4): there's no tree anymore. We did the "steep step" as a series of .7-.8 slab moves on large knobs (there is also a harder/dirtier dihedral a little right of the knobs). Our belay below the crux pitch was a corner on a ledge that would comfortably host several people. The corner takes finger-sized cams (up to .5 camalot) between the right wall and a 4.5'-high block. Directly above the block is a 5.10-looking dihedral.

We avoided that dihedral by finding an opening on the right-side wall, where a .8 move off the ledge (protected by a finger-sized cam) takes you to 15-20' of easy climbing. At the end of the easy climbing is a stance with .75-1 camalots for gear - that might be the intended (though less comfortable) belay to start the crux pitch, corresponding to the photo in that CascadeClimbers report.

There is no overhang. What "forces you to make a step-across to the left" is just that the right crack gets harder (and closer to vertical, but not overhanging). I did the step across where the left crack has a nice big foothold to step onto, but it was a long step. My 2nd used the undercling flake traverse a few feet higher. Neither of us climbed any flaring crack, but maybe that's what happens if you step left earlier.

We felt the initial section of the crux pitch (in the right crack) had a couple of mid-5.10 moves (similar to pitch 7B). Don't know what the left crack was like, but the right crack was at least super well protected. The rest of the pitch is within 5.9 but not much easier. There is a weird bulge with cracks on both sides that I bear-hugged, and later a wide shallow chimney with stemming and finger jams.

Towards the end of the crux pitch is a poor ledge on the left with a 3" crack, but if you climb 10' higher there is a better ledge with 1-1.5" cracks.

Could have easily used two #4s on the crux pitch (5.9 is my comfort limit). Aug 22, 2016
OReid
Denver, CO
  5.9+
OReid   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Awesome route (as we climbed it)! Start in the left trending crack just left of the chimney (stiff 5.8, bring a #4), then you can either join the regular route or follow our variation: proceed straight up above the chimney along various crack systems (5.7-5.8) to reach the ledge system at mid-height. This variation keeps the whole climb at a consistently steep, clean and awesome mid 5th class grade. And yes, do the splitter summit pitch; either aid or free, it's a beauty.

The main climb goes at 5.8 A0 or stiff 5.9, and C1 if you want to aid the 5.10a exit pitch, which could easily be done with the rack you'll have with you. Aug 8, 2016
This is a great route! We had it to ourselves a couple weekends ago, while the Burgner-Stanley was packed top to bottom. We couldn't figure out where the easy climbing was on the 2nd pitch, so we wound up climbing a crack system that went directly up toward the Burgner-Stanley chimney pitch (which felt 5.10+ish and was super fun as well). From there we climbed an easier traverse pitch and rejoined the route proper at a stance just above the Snafflehound Ledge. Finished with the .10- splitter to the summit, which is a must do IMO. Jun 16, 2015