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Oh, My My!

5.10d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 10 votes
FA: John Jackson 1994
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Deep Creek Crags > Arena

Description

We started directly below the 2nd bolt at the base of a short roof. Climb up to the roof, place a cam, pull the roof and clip the bolt (crux). Continue up a splitter. Follow the bolt line left then back right. Great exposure! The original line traverses in right from near Yosemite Crack.

Location

Right of Yosemite crack

Pro

12 -13 bolts depending on where you start. One hand size cam and a runner are needed if going direct. Chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Laine exiting the crux and heading into the sustained face
[Hide Photo] Laine exiting the crux and heading into the sustained face
The whole route in view with the option that we chose (same difficulty) starting directly below the crack and avoiding the finger traverse at the bottom and the horrible rope drag that comes with it.
[Hide Photo] The whole route in view with the option that we chose (same difficulty) starting directly below the crack and avoiding the finger traverse at the bottom and the horrible rope drag that comes with it.
If you extend some trad draws for the first two bolts the drag isn't so bad. You do increase the chance of decking though on a fall I guess.
[Hide Photo] If you extend some trad draws for the first two bolts the drag isn't so bad. You do increase the chance of decking though on a fall I guess.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mac345
Reno, Nv
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] this route is amazingly fun, its got everything, roof, crack, crimpy face, arete, traversing. what more could you ask for? Sep 6, 2013