Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Early Bird Crag

Angry Birds S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buzzards over Lexington S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cockadoodle Don't S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cockadoodle Doo S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Eagle Tenders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle's Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Early Bird Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge of Glory, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Falcon and Gulo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fast Times at Wolverine High S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Comes The Turkey S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Holes In The Universe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In cobble we trust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King Cobble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Percolator, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pullet Interrupted S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raven Ridge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of the Drillslingers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rib Cage S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silt in the Saddle Stitching S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Cobble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine on My Shoulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tweetie the Condor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Doodle Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yankee Magpie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yankee Strikes Again, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 559 total, 10/month
Shared By: James Taylor on Jul 6, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Nice slab route to set a top rope on for the kids or as a first time lead. As with most Maple Canyon routes the bolts are close together. The route ends at anchors on top of a ledge that also forms a belay station for The Percolator (5.12a). The anchors seemed quite high in position relative to the ledge but were still reachable for purposes of setting a top rope.

Location

When you first come around the corner of the approach trail to the main face of The Early Bird Crag you will see three flakes headed to a ledge directly up trail. This is the first line of bolts on the face of the third flake.

Protection

Six bolts to wide spread quick link / rap ring anchors. Due to the width between the anchors using short draws to set an opposing gate anchor for top rope may not be suitable.

Photos

James Taylor  
 
The kids really enjoyed this route scrambling up without hesitation. They seemed even more comfortable on this route than in the gym - perhaps because of the slab or maybe because the large cliff in the background makes the climb to the ledge seem less intimidating. Jul 6, 2013