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It's Not Easy Being Green
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 34
votes
Routes in Commonwealth
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"Otto Mattock" T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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A Question of Unbalance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ancient Squamish Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fanfare for the Common Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Furry Children Misbehavin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groovy Guru T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hungry, Hungry Hippos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's Not Easy Being Green T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Partners in Grime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pop-Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rick’s Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smells Like Fir T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stihl Cleaning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tastes Like Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total StinkEye, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | C. Small, K. Henshaw |
| Page Views: | 1,496 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark van Eijk on Jul 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The crag's sole mixed route, start up a fun finger crack to the very restful alcove then move onto the face above. Pass two bolts on thin, cruxy moves, punch it through 20 more feet with decent, but spacey protection to a short and very fun horizontal crack to top out.
Location
look for the bolts. Below them is a big, square, alcove. Start at the base of the crack which leads to the left side of the alcove
Protection
standard rack to 3" (only one large placement at the top) and two bolts. The first bolt can be clipped from a comfortable position if you're tall, shorter climbers will need to move into more insecure terrain to reach it. There are few placements possible between the bolts and the upper horizontal crack and I didn't find them particularly confidence-inspiring.
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