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Routes in Crumblin' Wall

Sunset Wage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kaibab Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruskie Buisness T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urge to Purge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warren Piece S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: C. Kirk
Page Views: 302 total, 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 6, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Unique and beautiful. I found this route years ago. It had 6 bolts and some old pre-hung draws that were sun bleached and worn. There was a bail carabiner on the 6th bolt. I subsequently added two more lead bolts and a two bolt chain anchor taking the climb to the top of the wall.

Start off of crimps and move into a dish with side pulls. Bust right into pockets and up to 10 feet of crumbly rock. A difficult cryptic sequence gets you in to good rock and good holds. Climb to large huecos and a rest. Fire the bouldery crux past two bolts and left facing rail that takes you past two more bolts and the anchor. The rock is surprisingly good on this one for the GC. This is a proud lead and an unlikely climb given the nature of the rock in the GC.

Location

Center left of the huge overhang. You'll know it when you see it. Its the only line of bolts up this section of wall.

Protection

Bolts

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