Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Javelin

A Place Beyond the Pines T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Gill Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Tony Schwartz & Chris Hirsch, (Ground-up) 7/5/13
Page Views: 586 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 6, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Very pleased with how this route turned out! Wander up NE face finding good gear and pulling well protected cruxes on excellent rock. Start the same as Gill Route from the talus perch. Place a piece right away then move out on to the face. Find your way to horizontal and prepare for the crux. Another smaller crux is near the top.

Location

NE aspect of spire. 70m or double rope rap.

Protection

Single rack to BD#2 & one #4 or #5
Nuts
5 Bolts
Bolted anchor

Photos

Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I heard the crashing sounds from Little Devils Tower area. A little later I talked to some hikers that claim to have gotten sprayed by rocks... Sep 29, 2014
Detached pillar and large block removed. All cleaned up! Sep 29, 2014
t.schwartz
  5.11+ PG13
t.schwartz  
  5.11+ PG13
Direct start can be obtained by starting down low at the North West toe of the formation. Look for the wide parallel crack at the start. Be aware of the giant loose block at the top of the wide crack on the right. It probably wont tip off, but it does wobble a little! A few hand size pieces protect the bottom well and creates a really nice 45 meter pitch! Jul 11, 2013