Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Body Electric

5.11a/b V4, Boulder, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > WM: Lincoln/Woo… > Indian Leap Falls

Description

This climb took me two tries and is a great way to fool around on the rock during a hot summer in New Hampshire. The crux comes close to the top about 20' off the water. The topout is solid and pretty secure although the time I fell was in the top lieback crack/arete.

I've been told the water is too deep to ever touch bottom but always be aware of your fall zone and scope it out before trying it.

Location

The climb starts out on the big wedged boulder beneath the downstream bridge. Shoe up and chalk up on the boulder. Next, chimney down until you can get into a big horizontal crack. Traverse out over the the big pool of Agassiz Basin until you are out over the water. The route climbs up and heads through a small bush a few moves into the route. Once below the steep overhang, do some face moves heading right towards the arete. Lieback into the crack there and head towards the lip.

Protection

None. This is a deep water solo climb. Your only protection is water and your ability to swim.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don't get wet
[Hide Photo] Don't get wet
Making the deadpoint to the crimp rail
[Hide Photo] Making the deadpoint to the crimp rail
Another shot of Johnathan
[Hide Photo] Another shot of Johnathan
Johnathan on "The Body Electric".
[Hide Photo] Johnathan on "The Body Electric".
the crux (for me)
[Hide Photo] the crux (for me)
details the general sequence of the climb
[Hide Photo] details the general sequence of the climb
Shows the downclimb, the traverse and the climb, superimposed onto an old postcard of the basin.
[Hide Photo] Shows the downclimb, the traverse and the climb, superimposed onto an old postcard of the basin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Such a good climb. Traverse in is straight forward. Crux for me was about 2/3 way up (1 move before going to the arete).


youtube.com/watch?v=uNa-PUj… Sep 3, 2015
Mateo San Pedro
OR
  V4
[Hide Comment] Glad you liked it and got on it! You take any falls on it or Warhammer??? Sep 5, 2015
Dogarf
  V0+
[Hide Comment] Not to put down the people who added this to mountain project, but it is not nearly V5. The general consensus that it's a steep but 5.9/5.10. That would make it a V0/V0+ which is why I personally think the YDS system suits this area more than V grades since "Body electric" is definitely not a gimme. This climb is super fun though with great movement, exposure and the best landing out of all the lines in the "lower pool". Jun 13, 2017
Mateo San Pedro
OR
  V4
[Hide Comment] This thing (granted this is my memories from many years ago) felt harder than V0/5.9 without a doubt but I agree that V5 is ridiculous. Originally I put a YDS grade on this at around 5.11a I think? And then when I saw the video or Warhammer I put a Hueco grade on it for some reason. I chose V5 because my boulder and route onsight grade have always been far apart. I was onsighting V6 and 5.11+ at that time I did this. Because I took one fall, I made it a grade or two easier than my max. I would agree now that V5 is not the correct grade since on a photo on this page I commented: "...what did you think of the grade?...I did this 2nd go but it was back when I was pretty out of shape. I think it's probably easier than V5 looking back. Just wondering what your thoughts are?" Either way, felt like 11a to me but harder than 5.9 Jun 20, 2017
jslice
  V4
[Hide Comment] This definitely felt like a highball boulder problem above water rather than a route so I believe it should be graded with the Hueco scale at v4. In fact, I actually shredded a rope trying to practice a move on TR solo at the edge so be careful! Jul 8, 2017
Dogarf
  V0+
[Hide Comment] 11a is equal to V2 which seems fair I guess. A lot more reasonable than V5! Jul 21, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V4+
[Hide Comment] Got on this today. Really fun intro sequence on good holds leading into a SKETCHY layback on the arete up high. The holds turn to slopers and that was definitely the crux for me. Did not feel one bit easier than V4 for me. Great line, just super committing at around the 20 foot mark so be ready to get scared. Jun 17, 2018
[Hide Comment] Is the water deep enough if you fall? Aug 8, 2021
Mateo San Pedro
OR
  V4
[Hide Comment] Robby, as with any DWS, conditions can always change to the river bottom as boulders and sediment shift...so scoping the landing is always imperative. But this is also quite a popular cliff jumping spot and years ago I took 2 falls while doing this route and never hit bottom. Check it out! Aug 8, 2021