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Routes in Indian Leap Falls

Body Electric, The V4 6B
Cassius Blue TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cyclosia TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Warhammer V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,443 total, 27/month
Shared By: Mateo San Pedro on Jul 5, 2013 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb took me two tries and is a great way to fool around on the rock during a hot summer in New Hampshire. The crux comes close to the top about 20' off the water. The topout is solid and pretty secure although the time I fell was in the top lieback crack/arete.

I've been told the water is too deep to ever touch bottom but always be aware of your fall zone and scope it out before trying it.

Location

The climb starts out on the big wedged boulder beneath the downstream bridge. Shoe up and chalk up on the boulder. Next, chimney down until you can get into a big horizontal crack. Traverse out over the the big pool of Agassiz Basin until you are out over the water. The route climbs up and heads through a small bush a few moves into the route. Once below the steep overhang, do some face moves heading right towards the arete. Lieback into the crack there and head towards the lip.

Protection

None. This is a deep water solo climb. Your only protection is water and your ability to swim.
Dodge
  V0+
Dodge  
  V0+
11a is equal to V2 which seems fair I guess. A lot more reasonable than V5! Jul 21, 2017
jslice
  V4
jslice  
  V4
This definitely felt like a highball boulder problem above water rather than a route so I believe it should be graded with the Hueco scale at v4. In fact, I actually shredded a rope trying to practice a move on TR solo at the edge so be careful! Jul 8, 2017
Mateo San Pedro   OR
 
This thing (granted this is my memories from many years ago) felt harder than V0/5.9 without a doubt but I agree that V5 is ridiculous. Originally I put a YDS grade on this at around 5.11a I think? And then when I saw the video or Warhammer I put a Hueco grade on it for some reason. I chose V5 because my boulder and route onsight grade have always been far apart. I was onsighting V6 and 5.11+ at that time I did this. Because I took one fall, I made it a grade or two easier than my max. I would agree now that V5 is not the correct grade since on a photo on this page I commented: "...what did you think of the grade?...I did this 2nd go but it was back when I was pretty out of shape. I think it's probably easier than V5 looking back. Just wondering what your thoughts are?" Either way, felt like 11a to me but harder than 5.9 Jun 20, 2017
Dodge
  V0+
Dodge  
  V0+
Not to put down the people who added this to mountain project, but it is not nearly V5. This thing is a classic local scramble that most people do barefoot with the general consensus that it's a steep but juggy 5.9. That would make it a V0/V0+ which is why I personally think the YDS system suits this area more than V grades since "Body electric" is definitely not a gimme. This climb is super fun though with great movement, exposure and the best landing out of all the lines in the "lower pool". Jun 13, 2017
Mateo San Pedro   OR
 
Glad you liked it and got on it! You take any falls on it or Warhammer??? Sep 5, 2015
Anson Roberts  
  V5
Such a good climb. Traverse in is straight forward. Crux for me was about 2/3 way up (1 move before going to the arete).


youtube.com/watch?v=uNa-PUj… Sep 3, 2015