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Routes in Cabezon Peak

Mad Hatter's Tea Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SE Gully (Standard Route) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 692 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mark Dalen on Jul 5, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb talus toward the obvious gully, which features a few boulder-type moves on quality rock. Above here the standard line makes a slightly dropping traverse right (north) before heading straight up. It is possible to go more or less straight up but this is all high angle talus where numerous accidents have occurred. Pick your line carefully.

As a side note, there is some potential for further development on this peak. A UNM Mountaineering Club trip in 1974, for example, climbed a direct line up the south face for 3 pitches of scary low-5th class. Other similar lines might be found by the intrepid choss-lover.

Location

Begin at the SE corner of the peak.

Protection

Slings & a few small pieces will anchor any line down the gully for the timid follower. Higher up there are no solid anchors of any kind.

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