Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rick Studley & Jeff Benowitz 1995
Page Views: 3,257 total · 32/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jul 5, 2013 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer, Jared LaVacque

You & This Route


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Description

The classic and "most popular" route at Mount Prindle, though I'd guess it sees <5 ascents per season. The line tackles the aesthetic western margin/skyline of the Main Wall (as seen from the approach), and has a number of variation finishes to the final pitches. Rock quality can vary wildly, and bomb-proof belay anchors are in short supply. There is no fixed gear or bolt anchors. If you have any doubts about your ability to navigate through loose/grainy rock, vegetation, gravel, bad or sometimes no protection, and lots of lichen, do not attempt this route. Otherwise, it is a fine quality adventure route for the competent and experienced climber.

P1) Up the low-angle left facing corner to a stance below the large square roof. 5.4

P2) Up and over the roof on it's right side, then follow shallow flaring cracks with a short OW section to a stance at the base of the large left-facing corner. Crux, 5.9

P3) Climb the highly vegetated and massive LF dihedral. Move out left towards the end of the corner to a belay near a short chimney/start of the 4th class. 5.7

P4) 4th class up a grassy gully/LF corner to a large grassy ledge at the base of the steep tower.

Variation finishes for Ghirardelli, including Thin Mint and Godiva (both 5.8), all start at the end of this pitch.

P5) Traverse left on the grassy ledge and follow obvious weaknesses upwards on the west side of the tower. Belay at the base of the steep final headwall. 5.easy.

P6) Climb left-slanting cracks up the headwall to the summit. 5.7. A hundred feet or so of class 3 scrambling will get you to the summit proper.

Location

Towards the left end of the main wall. Locate the obvious LF dihedral system with low roof that runs for nearly 600'. Easy walkoff to either the East or West side from the summit.

Protection

Standard rack including a set of nuts and optional 4" cam.

Photos