North Arete of the Painted Lady
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Clyde Fiddler & John Vallejo |
Page Views: | 1,093 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | John Vallejo on Jul 4, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Loose alpine granite up the north arete of the Painted Lady. 5.9ish climbing pitches 2 3 & 4, with a 5.10- mantle at the top of pitch 4. Easy 5th otherwise.
Descend down the easy west slope back to the JMT.
Descend down the easy west slope back to the JMT.
Location
Closest camp to this climb is at Rae Lakes. A permit is required - Kearsarge Pass trailhead, over Glen Pass to Rae Lakes.
Start on the north buttress facing Rae Lakes heading for some prominent overhanging flakes about 500' up, and for a giant X made of orange colored granite about 750' up where the angle backs off. Head into the orange granite 900' up trending east toward the summit. Descend on the south-west side via talus & scree.
Start on the north buttress facing Rae Lakes heading for some prominent overhanging flakes about 500' up, and for a giant X made of orange colored granite about 750' up where the angle backs off. Head into the orange granite 900' up trending east toward the summit. Descend on the south-west side via talus & scree.
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