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Yin and Yang
V3 PG13,
Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: David Hessler
New Jersey
> c. NorthEast
> bouldering Nor…
> Garrett Mountain
Access Issue: Access Uncertain
Details
Garrett Mountain falls under the Passaic County Park system which under Article 2 section 37 "No Person shall engage in the climbing or repelling in the climbing or mountains, mountain cliffs and/or building structures on park premises."
The first developer of this area has been bouldering at the Flakes since the late 1990's. The Flakes is in the woods and somewhat obscured from easy viewing down the hill.
The Flakes area is about 100 yards uphill from a police station. Climbers must be discrete, keep quiet, no super bright colors, etc. Keeping a low profile is essential to maintain the use of this area.
Description
This is a really fine route with some interesting moves and good holds. The problem gets harder higher up and you need to have your wits about you when committing to the finishing moves. Begin in a sit start with your right hand pinching the right arete of Flake 2 and your left on a chalked side pull/pinch grip on the face. Place your feet on some large holds inches off of the ground and pull on. Slap up higher on the arete with the right and make powerful move up and left to an edge on the face for the left hand. Move your right foot onto a small, hard to see edge and lunge up to pinch a loose block on the arete. Bring your left foot up and bring the left hand up to a small edge about two feet left of the arete. Reach up into an alcove for a layback with the right hand. Step around the arete to the right for a good right foothold. Then move up and put feet on some small edges. Left hand goes put to a small right facing corner for a layback. Stabilize. Reach up and to better holds near or at the horizontal break. Move around to the right about 6 feet below the top. The problem is over. Downclimb.
Location
On the right side of Flake 2
Protection
pads