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Clockwork Orange

5.12c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
FA: Mike Cronin
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Big Picture Gully > Big Picture Wall

Description

Fairly long for Spearfish with interesting movement makes this route one of the better ones in the canyon, though a few shared holds with Armageddon detract from it as it sits only 3 feet from it in spots.
Start in a slight overhang and as you peek over the bulge you'll be introduced to a blank orange patch of rock. Look right to find some good pockets, hike the feet and make a big move to the next draw. This is the hardest move, but likely not where you'll fall on the red point. It may actually be harder for taller folks.
Grab a few good holds, then make your way into a double gaston move or a bitchin mono undercling. Entering the black rock you'll find the crux, a hard-to-read sequence of crimps and terrible feet.

Location

Center of wall with an orange blob of rock in the middle and a marginal belay spot.

Protection

bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] If this route had been bolted offset in a way that followed the holds instead of having just a plumb line of bolts, the experience would have been greatly improved. I felt it was the best line on the wall and it was really a letdown to have it squeezed so hard by Armegeddon- even to the point of sharing holds. A single shared start with divergent bolt lines would have been much better. Oct 14, 2016