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Routes in Rhesus Monkey

Monkey Business T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rheomorphism T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Too Big To Fail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: C. Parks, T. Bubb, 7/2/13
Page Views: 302 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route was named after a block that was perched at the crux 2/3's of the way up the route, which we cleaned, and for the summit block that you scramble under to get to the belay, which we did not disturb, and should not be a problem. Both would have been "Too Big To Fail" without consequence. Bank on that. But the route is safe.

This route was obviously un-climbed when we approached it. It looked poor at first, but with some minor removal of some small flakes, one large flake, and a few bushy branches, it is actually a good clean route now.

Climb up onto the bulge to access the crack as for Monkey Business, then climb up and left in that same crack system to a small, shallow, left-facing corner. A the top, go right onto the ledge, then scamper under a large perched boulder (the one that is "Too Big To Fail" and back to the belay in a corner, back 7 meters uphill from the edge.

Location

This climb starts as for Monkey Business but continues directly upward, finishing in the shallow corner with the crack between 'Monkey Business' and 'Rheomorphism.'

Protection

A run of cams from 0.75" to 3.5" for the lead plus a few large stoppers and a large cam for the belay. Extra green/red Camalots could be placed if you want to sew it up.

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