Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Gary N, NM, 5/2013|
|Page Views:||3,962 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||Gary N on Jul 2, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
From the approach trail, you can see the massive cave in the massive dihedral. This is what you're looking for. Start up the massive dihedral in-between 'No Country For Old Men' and 'Nuggernaut'. After a full rope length, you'll see a red sling with a quick-link on it. I belayed on the huge ledge to the right.
From here, we moved the belay more to the right, about 30'. There was an exposed step around to a small stance to get started again. Be sure to head right here. Do not continue up towards the purple sling a short distance up. Head on up, trending slightly right perhaps. This pitch ended with a small overhang in a v-slot like feature.
At this point, I remember heading up a short crack in a blocky, right-facing dihedral and making a step around left. I continued heading up, doing some face climbing. I finished this pitch after another small overhang.
1.5 to 2 more pitches of fun face climbing up and slightly left will put you at the base of Da Cherry on Top! This is the money pitch. It is a huge piece of solid and amazing rock. It is a left-facing dihedral with an off-width to squeeze chimney. Get on up this thing, and you'll be right near the rappel route, and the summit.
Descent - follow cairns from the summit southeast-ish to a bolted rap anchor. Make one single rope rap to a large tree with webbing. From here, make a double rope rap to a small, singular tree with webbing. Another double rope rap will get you to a bolt and fixed nut (webbing/cord could use an update). From here, make a double rope rap to a large terrace with a two bolt anchor. One more double rope rap will get you to the base of the Nuggernaut. You may want to leave your shoes/packs at the base of the 'Nuggernaut'.
This is an adventurous route, as is Tradistan Tower. Don't fret too much about finding the exact route I tried to describe above. Just make sure you end up at Da Cherry on Top somehow. Enjoy the climbing and adventure.