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Routes in Rattlesnake Station

Eagle Powers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pedestal TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Stickup T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 30 ft, Grade V
FA: Grant Smith - 6/28/13
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: Grant Smith on Jul 1, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

The first half of the climb is fun, then it gets tricky the rest of the way up. There isn't much to hold onto but small crimps, pinches and slopers near the top. It's a quick climb, but it has three variations.

(L to R) The milky looking crack is a tough climb, but it's possible to reach the top on this line. The center variation converges to the right's line about half way up. The left and right lines are a bit off-center, so care must be taken when falling.

The rock cleaves quite a bit, so there are foot chips a plenty.

Location

The route is easy to locate once your at Tiger Wall (the first cliff face you see after heading up around the bend up the pass after parking at Rattlesnake station's historical marker turnoff). The climb is on an independent pillar toward the right of the cliffs. It has a milk fountain looking crack to the left and a pedestal at the base of that crack.

Getting to the top of the cliff is an easy scramble up the right (or left) side around the back of the pillar. It is a little exposed, so leashing up is a good idea (as always!).

The bottom belayer has the option of anchoring in on a boulder in front of the climb.

Protection

Top Rope only so far. Not bolted yet, although the rock at the top is solid enough for top rope anchors. There are two boulders that provide redundant protection opportunities. Bring plenty of webbing or an extra gym rope. The boulders are big and the distance to the cliff edge is about 15 ft.

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