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Butterfingers

5.9, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario S Bould… > Golden Horseshoe > Mt Nemo > R. The Big Gulp
Warning Access Issue: Top rope ban in effect@SEMICOLON@ DO NOT SLING THE CEDARS. DetailsDrop down

Description

Starts at marker #49. Ascend the varied terrain up to a crack that sits in a right facing corner. Continue up the incipient crack to the roof. Pull the roof. Fixed wrap station. An alternate 5.6 variation: same start. Ascend the arching left facing corner (is immediately to the right of the right facing corner. The arching crack and right facing corner converge 1/2 way up the route. Traverse left at the incipient crack. Gain the ledge to the left. Ascend to the 2nd ledge and traverse right to the wrap station. Both variations are quite good.

Protection

Trad.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick Becerra
Madison Heights, Mi
 
[Hide Comment] Easy climbing leads to a ledge where the business begins. The left finger crack is tough but has decent gear. Extend your piece below the roof to avoid rope drag while belaying from the top. The left variation is easy and any placements over there will complicate your rope system more than is worth. Anchor placement on this route is confusing, bring some long slings to extend the bolt placements if you intend on belaying up there or else you'll be belaying from a very uncomfortable position. May 30, 2023