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Judy's on the Drug Squad

5.10a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 43 votes
FA: Harry Hoediono, Judy Barnes (1985-1988)
International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario S Bould… > Golden Horseshoe > Mt Nemo > R. The Big Gulp
Warning Access Issue: Top rope ban in effect@SEMICOLON@ DO NOT SLING THE CEDARS. DetailsDrop down

Description

Ascend the blocky face to a right facing flake that grows into a corner. At the corner's terminus, ascend up and right through the bulge to easier climbing.

Location

The route is at the right-most end of the Big Gulp area. There is nearly always a party camped here, so you cannot miss it.

Protection

This was once a trad route, but has recently been re-bolted with anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Side view from climbers right 5 bolts into the climb
[Hide Photo] Side view from climbers right 5 bolts into the climb
Julie on the beginning of Judy's, climbing barefoot.
[Hide Photo] Julie on the beginning of Judy's, climbing barefoot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David James
Bellingham, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Super fun climbing on this route, especially to get on the ledge after the second bolt and the big flake after it.

The 3rd bolt placement is kind of funny. It is easy to clip if you are 6ft and can reach from the ledge, but someone shorter would have what is already the hardest part of the climb made even more difficult for them. Perhaps that is why the ratings for this seem to be all over the place between the guides. Jun 12, 2019
Patrick Becerra
Madison Heights, Mi
 
[Hide Comment] David is right, the placement of the third bolt on this route is heinous. I'm 5'11 and had to stand on tippy toes to fish the draw through the bolt. Shorter climbers will have to commit to the crux lieback to reach it. Anyone with a drill and a big heart could do wonders by moving this bolt down about eight inches.

Overall the route climbs well with only one committing move near the top with a good fall zone. Climb it early in the day, this thing absolutely bakes in the afternoon. May 30, 2023
Derek Nheiley
Burlington, ON
[Hide Comment] A long draw is required (for leaders after you) on the third bolt which is indeed very hard to reach if you're under 6ft.

Someone should replace it with a permanent long chain draw (if that's permitted at nemo?). Aug 17, 2024