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Routes in Phantasia Boulders

Falkor V6-7 7A+
Nothing, The V9-10 7C+
Rock Biter V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, Alpine, 15 ft
FA: Todd Helgeson
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on Jun 27, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! Details

Description


The crux is controlling the pain from the holds, aside from that, it is thin crimps with great feet on a 30 degree overhanging wall on excellent granite

Location

Two-Three pads and a spotter. Cram one pad in the trench unfolded and place one or two on the slab/rock behind. The fall is generally straight back because of the angle. The spotter should just have to direct you to the pad

Protection

On the back(north) side of the Phantasia/Nothing Boulder. Start on the low jug make a reach up rightwith your right and left hands to a crimp rail and then set your feet, use a small crimp intermediate up high with your right and then then grab the "lip" hold before the lip and then gun for the lip and finish straight up.
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
Its a different climbing style than Muffin Man or Thunderfluff. Neither of those problems is crimpy, that being said, it's hard to even compare these problems, plus Rock Biter is a 7+ and the other two are solid 8s. Jul 28, 2013
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  V6-7
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  V6-7
I felt this was quite soft for the grade, especially compared to things like muffin man and thunderfluff. Jul 24, 2013