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Routes in Main Block, Front Side

Darling Dainty Feet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Arms S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phazers on Stun T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unnamed 5.12 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Urine Over Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unnamed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: A. Pisaneschi, J. Nonamaker, G. Peterson
Page Views: 407 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sinner on Jun 25, 2013 with updates from kenr
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Description

Balancy footwork takes you through three bolts to the top. Grabbing the arete keeps the climb 11ish, staying strict to the bolt line makes it twelvish. The rock is clean with a touch of lichen.

Location

First route on the right as you enter the library corridor. Use the bolt anchor for the warm up route to rap off.

Protection

Three bolts plus two-bolt anchor at top.

Photos

kenr  
The suggestion in the description above to use the arete to keep the difficulty in the 11 range is very appropriate.

The move slightly below mid-way is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft7inch with normal reach.

Some the hangers on the bolts might be old. Jun 13, 2015
The unnamed route to the right describes this climb as Nose Drops, and I believe the guidebook agrees and calls it a 5.12a. If Thunderstud is a 12b than this climb is absolutely a 12 no matter what beta you're using. Apr 16, 2018

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