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All Locations > South Dakota > Custer State Park > Sylvan Lake > Middle Earth > West Lies Mirkwood

An Unexpected Journey

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13


 Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes

Routes in West Lies Mirkwood

An Unexpected Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Knob Goblin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
My Feets, My Feets, My Precious Feeet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Lee Terveen, Joel McKillop, Chris Hirsch, Anthony Schwartz
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Jun 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A good route with a low crux in the crack followed by enjoyable crystal pinching through numerous bulges. Exciting finish.

Location

Route starts in the hand crack that separates west lies mirkwood/east lies iron hills then eventually gains the bolted northwest buttress of mirkwood.

Protection

A couple hand size pieces for the low crack, six bolts, save a number 1 camalot for the horizontal 2/3s the way up

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1 Comment

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Ivanna ClimbALot
Ivanna ClimbALot  
#1 Camelot is bad beta. The crack is too shallow where it's wide enough for that. A purple TCU is your best bet.

I met the mini guide author there & she wasn't even familiar with the route, so it's hardly surprising the cam beta is incorrect. Jul 6, 2017

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