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Piper At The Gates Of Dawn

5.11b, Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Washington > Okanogan > Kettle Valley (… > Tonata Creek Wall - W…

Description

Piper at the Gates of Dawn - 5.11b **** (2 pitch) M (1b)

This is an excellent mostly gear route that has the feel of a big wall. Tricky route finding and gear placements and lots of hard moves above your gear make for a committing climb.

P1 (80', 5.11a) - climb the face and cracks left of the small corner system to the good belay ledge by the small fir tree with the 2 bolt anchor.

P2 (160', 5.11b) - continue up the exceptional crack and shallow corner above, past another fir to mount the 1st roof on the left. Traverse up diagonally right (bolt at crux) to the 2nd roof and climb through it at the right on good holds. Follow the cracks up and right to the small fir tree on top and a good gear belay.

Location

The long grey east face beginning 100' left of the Great White Corner by the lone aspen tree at the base.

Protection

Full rack of cams, hexes and stoppers (lots of small ones needed on the 1st pitch), and several long slings.