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Routes in The Far Cliff

RAF T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Social Bully T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thwarthog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turlington, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, Pete Yost, Pete Axelson. 1983
Page Views: 386 total, 7/month
Shared By: Timmijal on Jun 23, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Although the approach and finding the route can be a little troublesome, this route offers some great climbing, nice exposure, and a good dose of seclusion. If you're one who likes a good adventure then this is a great choice. I think finding the route was the crux of the day.

Pitch 1: Climb up and to the right to a blank corner. Climb the corner (Bolt), continue up good holds to a roof and then move right to a large ledge. (80')

Pitch 2: climb up and left utilizing some horizontals. Apparently there was an old ice screw which gives the route its name, but I could not find it. Shoot for a small right facing corner at the left end of a roof. steep moves up and to the left lead out of the corner. Then head up and left aiming for a short finger crack which climbs to a tree on the top.

Location

This route is located towards the left end of the far cliff. There are a few ways to find the climb, You could rappel from the lookouts the the trail leads to, or bushwhack from the lower trail through the woods.
I had to move to a different area of the cliff and rappel down with two 60 meter ropes

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot I found wires to be very useful. One bolt on the first pitch and a fixed nut on the second

Photos

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