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Chalking Up Rails
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Early Access
Routes in Bioturbation Wall
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Acid Rain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Aeon Flux T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Alienation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Biomass T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bioturbation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bruce Lee as FUCK T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calibration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Captain Crunchbot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Captian Kangaroo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chalking Up Rails T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cups T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Elation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Evacuation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jack-O-Lation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just the Tips T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lee-Tardation T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Lifer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Regime Change T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Scrunch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Turbinado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed (#11 in new Creek Freak guide) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 38.03398, -109.57738 |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury, Ty Gittins 2/22/13 |
| Page Views: | 1,174 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Jun 22, 2013 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Shallow changing corners with fingers/tight-hands end with crux moves out of the crack where it pinches down to less than tips, one long reach hits the first of a series of surprising crimps that quickly turn to large flat rails as the angle rolls over. Uncharacteristic face climbing for the Creek along the now very thin crack. Unless you bring several 000 C3s, this final bit will be runout, but it's pretty mellow climbing.
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