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Routes in The Crack House
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Bold Yellow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dark Rock, Good Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gargoyle Gardens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Desert T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jug-A-Lug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mountin' Mahogany T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Is Hard To Say T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snafu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stub-a-Chub S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 42.12519, -113.67126 |
| FA: | Rick Thompson, Jim Ghiselli, Kevin Vowles 1999 |
| Page Views: | 1,856 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Jun 22, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Great, juggy route.
Easy flare start leads to "OMG" holds all the way up, with a very short stretch of pure hand crack for a move or two.
Mostly a face climb with drop in pro nearly anywhere, and, a variety of sizes.
With a single 60m, rope, belay at the anchor then rappel, carefully, back down with the rope ends barely reaching the ground.
DO NOT LOWER OFF WITH A 60 METER ROPE!!!! It won't reach. Tie a knot in the belay end or have both people tie in.
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