Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: dunno
Page Views: 838 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jun 22, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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15 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Great, juggy route.

Easy flare start leads to "OMG" holds all the way up, with a very short stretch of pure hand crack for a move or two.

Mostly a face climb with drop in pro nearly anywhere, and, a variety of sizes.

With a single 60m, rope, belay at the anchor then rappel, carefully, back down with the rope ends barely reaching the ground.

DO NOT LOWER OFF WITH A 60 METER ROPE!!!! It won't reach. Tie a knot in the belay end or have both people tie in.

Location

First route to the left of Jug-a-Lug.

Climb up then left to the anchor on Dark Rock, Good Rock.

Protection

No fixed gear. Standard rack works great. Could use up to a 4 camalot but there's many opportunities for different sizes of pro.

Photos

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
This route is named "Dark Rock, Good Rock" and was first done by Kevin Vowles & Rick Thompson, June 1999. We rated it 5.8- *** Jun 1, 2014
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7+
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7+
Rick, I note there's a route to the left known as Dark Rock, Good Rock. This route is just to the right of that route I think. Jun 2, 2014
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
5.7+ seems pretty ambitious... feels more like 5.6. Sep 4, 2016
Grant G
Spokane Valley, WA
 
Grant G   Spokane Valley, WA
 
Be careful when pulling your rope from the anchors shared by this route, El Pollo Loco, and Dark Rock, Good Rock. Our rope became badly stuck in two different constrictions. Jul 23, 2018