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Routes in Carhartt Wall

Carhartt Confidentials T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Cenotaph, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fancy Cat, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Degrees Of Separation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vagtastic Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 846 total · 13/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Jun 20, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climbs a face and the slightly overhanging tombstone feature on the right side of Carhartt Wall.

Begin on some easier crimpy face climbing. Making some thin moves around the third bolt. There is a nice rest to the right before committing to the tombstone itself. Work left a bit and find a way up the 6 foot wide buttress. I opted for some iron cross (fitting style i guess) moves to a decent rest jug on the left. Then clipped the last bolt and desperately gunned it right and then up to the anchors. I found this climb to be pumpy. Multiple sources, including ADK Rock and the guy who followed me say its easier to stay left through the 20' crux section. Either way a fun line worth doing.

Location

At the right end of the Carhartt Wall. Start on the right side of the ledge or from the ground if you wish to add a few more feet of climbing.

Protection

Bolts
Bolt Anchor

Photos

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Another terrific pitch. It's all nice & friendly on the starting face, then it sneaks up on you. The wind was blowing real hard when I did this and I couldn't imagine a worse spot to be in. Almost threw me off the edge. Oct 27, 2013
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Cool, relatively short crux sequence that requires a little thought on the upper pillar, and beautiful incut edges on the lower section. Definitely worth climbing if you are climbing Three Degrees to the left.... Jun 21, 2015
MattH  
The first bolt was super loose this weekend, and it eventually unscrewed itself while the last person in our party was leading it. The nut fell into oblivion down the hill but the bolt and washer are stashed in a pod on a rock at the base. At least one route on every wall here seemed to have a loose first bolt. I need to start bringing a wrench with me. Sep 7, 2016
Climbed this route today, the first bolt hanger is still missing, I will bring one next time I come to the area if I can remember. Nice routes on this wall. As a side note, some of the wedge bolts at Shelving Rock are on the short side. Most industrial wedge anchors (the kind with a nut threaded on the end) are imprinted with a letter on the end. The wedge anchors on Cenotaph and a few other routes here look to be Powers Power-Studs and are "C" length (2.5-2.75" long) meaning they barely meet minimum embedment depth for both shear and pull out strength. They are plenty strong, but it seems like most folks are going a bit longer, 3-3.75" long, which allows a little more wiggle room for embedment if the wedge doesn't bite right away. Most climbing shops, websites and Fixe (who makes climbing specific hardware) don't sell a lot of hardware this short anymore. Given the additional pull-out force exerted on the first bolt, it wouldn't hurt to have a longer one here. I noticed the anchors at the top are the longer variety, and 1/2" diameter studs. Arguably these bolts could be shorter, and the ones at the crux and down low could be longer, given the fact that the anchor bolts never hold a fall and are presumably equalized. Sorry to nerd out on everyone, just my two cents. Aug 20, 2018

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