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Southeast Chimneys

5.8, Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.7 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Southwest Region > Butte Area > Humbug Spires > Wedge
Warning Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15 DetailsDrop down

Description

Don't be put off by the Chimney in the name, there are no chimney moves on the route.

There are many variations to get to the start of the Southeast chimney route itself. Take any of the routes to the top of the balcony or use the first pitch of Exit 99 for a more direct start.

P1- (5.7) The Butterknife
Climb the obvious Butterknife flake, then make moves out to the face on the left continuing up to the manky 1/4 bolts on the face above. Clip the mank and move up to the glorious crack above. Follow this crack for about 50' to your choice of small ledges. Gear anchor.

P2- (5.8-) Pull the roof using great jams and cruise to the top of the balcony on easier ground.

P3- (5.4) Traverse/downclimb/curse your way across the broken ledge system to a nice shady belay with a slung chockstone.

P4- (5.7) Climb up various cracks and face features to a gear belay near the base of the "chimney".

P5- (5.7) Get your jam on up the various cracks to the "notch" at the top. There is a bolted anchor just on the other side of the notch. Enjoy the views of the Pioneer Range. Leave that heavy trad rack clipped to the anchor for the last pitch. You can get it on the way down.

P6- (5.8) Climb to the top of the block above the belay and peer left around the edge of the south face. There is a bolt. Clip it and down climb a few feet. Commit to the face, this is the crux. Once on the face follow the bolts to the "top". Bolted anchor.

Either rap from this anchor to the ground or follow the ridgeline to the true summit (5.2).

Location

A 70M just barely gets you down. Tie the ends!

Protection

Nuts, 2x cams to #3, a 4 and 5 are really nice, but probably not needed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Traverse/downclimb pitch via the Butterknife -- no cursing from us, I'd call it well-protected Class 5 over some exposure.
[Hide Photo] Traverse/downclimb pitch via the Butterknife -- no cursing from us, I'd call it well-protected Class 5 over some exposure.
Tracey Price leads Butterknife on the Wedge 3 July 2011
[Hide Photo] Tracey Price leads Butterknife on the Wedge 3 July 2011
Second pitch of the SE Chimney route on the Wedge.  Leann gettin' er done  3 July 2011.
[Hide Photo] Second pitch of the SE Chimney route on the Wedge. Leann gettin' er done 3 July 2011.
The Southeast Chimney Route
[Hide Photo] The Southeast Chimney Route