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Positive Affect

5.12a, Trad, Sport, 3000 ft (909 m), 19 pitches, Grade V,  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Drew Smith and Chance Traub
International > S America > Chile > Valle Cochamó > Arco Iris

Description

We took six weeks to clean and open Positive Affect on the south face of Arco Iris. Five pitches are 5.9 or easier, it has five pitches of 5.10, eight pitches of 5.11 and one unforgettable 5.12 pitch.
Positive Affect follows dihedral systems with delicate foot work and stemming along with varied crack systems that lead you to the steeper upper section of the route. The crux is pitch 18 a vertical dihedral starting with a finger crack then moving into 40 meters of sustained stemming with plenty of exposure below. The 5.12 pitch has 12 bolts and can be climbed going from bolt to bolt.
The route was named after Jen Dinaburg, Traub’s late wife who passed away from adrenal cancer in April of 2012.

For Pictures and pitch descriptions visit drewsplan.blogspot.com/2013…

Watch this video of establishing Positive Affect youtube.com/watch?v=_7McHWS…

Location

Find specific approach and decent beta in the refugio

Protection

All 19 pitches are equipped with 2 stainless steel Fixe hangers with rappel rings. The gear recommended is doubles from micro cams up to a #4 BD Camalot
Single set of micro stoppers and medium stoppers
12 draws
#5 BD not necessary anymore for pitch 17, one bolt have been added

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Daniel Seeliger leading pitch 16
[Hide Photo] Daniel Seeliger leading pitch 16
Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
[Hide Photo] Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
[Hide Photo] Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
Chance leading pitch 13
[Hide Photo] Chance leading pitch 13
Drying out after rain while establishing Positive Affect
[Hide Photo] Drying out after rain while establishing Positive Affect
Chance on pitch 4 a splitter finger crack
[Hide Photo] Chance on pitch 4 a splitter finger crack
Positive Affect on Arco Iris
[Hide Photo] Positive Affect on Arco Iris
Topo of Positive Affect
[Hide Photo] Topo of Positive Affect
First 5 pitches to King ledge
[Hide Photo] First 5 pitches to King ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Votto
CO, CT, IT
[Hide Comment] Great video and route guys!!! I'm psyched to get down there Mar 10, 2014
[Hide Comment] Great work on this line! Jan 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] By far the best climb we did in Cochamo. And we have been climbing 17 other routes there Jun 12, 2018