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Routes in Lower Flailing Wall

A Yucca Minute T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Makers Mark, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nautilus Workout T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pink Panter, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Preying Mantles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Studly Do-Right T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Surface Tension S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Big For Your Bridges T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zingin In The Rain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 278 total, 5/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 17, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Face climb past two bolts to finger crack. Climb up to and over bulge to two bolt anchor. Soft for the grade. Hardest moves are during the first 10 feet of face climbing.

Protection

Couple of draws and single rack of cams to #3 BD. Nuts fit well in the crack.

Photos

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This is my favorite climb on the Lower Flailing Wall. Start directly above a yucca plant. If you fall at any point before clipping the second bolt, contact with the yucca is possible. The crack has good rests, takes good pro, is steep and solid 5.10. The most difficult section of the crack is where it is thinnest, about a body length section half way up. Hand jams are the norm up high. Exit the crack to the left and pull a bulge on good holds before clipping the bolted anchor. Jul 14, 2013