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Routes in Gates of Tuyuk-Su

Central Bastion Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 315 total, 6/month
Shared By: Riley Jordan on Jun 16, 2013
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Description

This 5-pitch sport route (climb #3 on the Okytbrenok Peak topos) includes a variety of climbing styles, a sense of adventure and great views of the valley. It comes into the sun around noon and can be very cold in the morning. I forget the exact number of bolts for each pitch but I think the 5th pitch had 13 or 14 (max), maybe carry 15 draws to be on the safe side. At least 3/4 (if not all) the rack should be alpine draws because of the zig-zaging nature of the bolts.

Pitch 1- 5.10a. Starts out a little runout to the first bolt but easy climbing. The crux of this pitch is after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. (10 bolts?)

Pitch 2- 5.9. Climb up from the anchor and gain a grassy ramp (crux). Hike up the ramp to a large grassy area and up the wall a few meters to the anchors. This is a pretty short route despite what the picture looks like and it is more of a hike than vertical climbing. Gives the feeling of adventure climbing, bolts can be difficult to spot. (7 bolts?)

Pitch 3- 5.10b. Said to be the crux pitch, it's a few strenuous moves to get into and above a small dihedral. Great pitch! (13 bolts?)

Pitch 4- 5.10a. Also a great pitch. Tricky section just above the anchor, could be dangerous if the leader fell on the belayer. (12 bolts?)

Note: A local guide book shows a variation from the top of the 2nd pitch to the top of the 4th but I didn't see the bolts and don't have any information on this route.

Pitch 5- 5.10b. Traverse up and left from the anchor, toward the crack in the corner. I found this to be as difficult (or more) than the moves on the 3rd pitch. From there, move up the corner, jamming, stemming and jug hauling to the notch. Another awesome pitch! (14 bolts?)

If you decide to rappel, you'll need two ropes. Two 70m would be ideal but 60m will get you down in 4 rapps. From the anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch, rapp into the gully that is climbers right of the grassy area (shown in green on the picture). Or, you can walk off the backside. WARNING: the backside holds snow into the summer months and could be dangerous. Talk to locals or take 2 ropes if you're not sure.

Summit Option: After the technical section, you can continue up the ridge to the summit of Oktybrenok. Will add a considerable amount of time to your trip but well worth it.

Location

The route is located in the center of the main buttress and finishes in the notch at the top.

Protection

This route is sown-up and all anchors have 3 beefy I-bolts with decent to good ledges.

Helmets should be worn at all times due to loose rock.

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