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Routes in Desert Shield Area

El Kabong S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelving Rock Earth Penatrator S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shock and Awe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
WMD S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 287 total · 4/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Jun 13, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

I feel this is the best of the three routes in this on this face. Climb slab up under an overlap. Pass this on the left to gain a stance. Make a traverse left that seems a bit harder than the original 5.6 rating then up to the anchors.

Location

Right most line in front to the big oak

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Why are there two sets of chain anchors on this line? Nov 17, 2013
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Despite all the beta I had available to me between here and Adirondack Rock (2008), I think I still managed to get off route on this thing. I see from the description that I was supposed to go left around the roof but I went right, using the random two-bolt anchor for pro. I was definitely far from the first person to do this, but it felt pretty stiff for 7. 8+/9, maybe? You'd hit the slab fairly hard if fell, too, I think. Anyone know the consensus grade on this clueless variation? Jun 11, 2018

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