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Women's Semi-Qualifier

5.11+, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 14 votes
FA: Tony Yaniro - 1989
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Wall
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Great sport climb from the comp, follow bolts left of a thin crack. Stepping off the block to the right is way easier than straight up the guts.

Location

This route is in the east facing alcove right of the comp splitter.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Women's Semi-Final.  Bolts through granite "tufas" to chains.
[Hide Photo] The Women's Semi-Final. Bolts through granite "tufas" to chains.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie S
NV
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Unless something obvious was missed (or broke), and based on conversations with several others, this is unlikely 5.11b. Compared to Comp Splitter (11a), No Competition (11b), and She's the Bosch (5.11c), this is most likely 12a. The crux lurks after the last bolt. Sep 20, 2015
Tanner Clegg
Washington D.C.
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I share @Charlie's sentiments. I've been on several soft 12s which would cower if brought to bear with this weird, cool, stout climb. Maybe it's a stylistic thing (I admittedly suck at climbing anything without face holds), but I've never been pumped outta my brains at the top of a steep granite wall w/ a forearm-extinguishing handjam coupled with my rubbish left heel squeezing a minuscule edge for dear life as I contemplate the hypothetical misery of botching an onsight while clipping the chains after having already climbed through all kinds of tenuous moves to get to this chain-clipping point when the climb in question happens tO BE bUt A mOTleY eLEvEN B. Really cool, but much harder than 11b, unless I'm missing some cryptic god-beta. I milked the hell outta all kinds of kneebars and rests. Furthermore, doing the direct start indeed made it a bit harder, but it certainly didn't make it 3 grades harder, and it certainly didn't make the cruxy top third much harder. Jun 24, 2020
michalm
 
[Hide Comment] The anchor has been fitted with durable lower-off hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). To support work like this, please donate today at safeclimbing.org/donate

The anchors are poorly positioned. It may be slightly easier to clip them with the new lower-offs, but overall clipping the anchors may be the redpoint crux. Nov 15, 2021