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Routes in Neanderthal Cave

Breaking Bad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diva S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dweezil S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Protruding Forehead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sub Dude S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 793 total · 12/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Jun 12, 2013 with updates from Mike Loitsch
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb a corner then up slab to an overhanging face. Power up through a series of monster jugs to the anchors.

There's a variation (5.8) that extends the route. Just before the anchor, step left and follow the bolt line to an anchor left of Diva. Watch rope drag.

Location

Left of Sub Dude.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7+
"Juggy" indeed! Plus, the opening moves require some thought and planning to go at 5.7. Interesting. Jun 3, 2014
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
  5.7+ PG13
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
  5.7+ PG13
I give it PG13 only because of the first clip. You will want to have a bouldering spotter if you are beginning to lead 5.7. The holds *are* there, just not where you want them to be, hehe.

Also, this route is super fun, DO IT! May 22, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
I was very happy to have stick clipped the first bolt, the opening moves are pretty odd.
This route is OK, but the extension described above is excellent: steep, beautiful rock, some interesting moves (although none harder than the start IMO), and incredible position. I used 13 draws including 1 alpine draw on the regular route and one on the extension. At the anchor, standard length draws leave the rope in a spot where it pinches and makes it hard belay or lower. I extended them by adding 2 lockers to the ends of the draws, but a pair of alpine draws is probably right way to rig it. Jun 11, 2018

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