Avg: 3.2 from 23 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||James and Franziska Garrett, 1992|
|Page Views:||2,377 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Noyce on Jun 10, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe route is four pitches long, but I've only done the first pitch myself, so I'll include information from the guidebook on the other pitches.
Pitch 1: This is an amazing 5.9 handcrack. The crux of the pitch comes right at the start where the crack is thin hands (.75 camalot) size for a few feet before you gain a big jug and the crack widens to perfect hands for the rest of the pitch. The pitch ends at the obvious 3 bolt anchor after maybe 75 feet.
Pitch 2: Continue up the crack which turns into an offwidth dihedral right after the anchors. This is the technical crux of the route at 5.10. At the top of the dihedral you'll see two bolts off to the right, this is the top of another route, at this point traverse left and continue up another 25 feet of easy climbing to the large belay ledge and build a gear anchor.
Pitch 3: I don't really know anything about this route other than the fact that it's 5.7 and ends at a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: Again, no personal info on this pitch, but it starts out by traversing right then continues up a crack and goes at 5.8, ending at another 2 bolt anchor.
ProtectionYou should be good with a double set of cams up to 3" plus a couple of larger pieces for the offwidth on pitch 2.
From what I understand you can rap off the route in four single rope raps, I'm not sure if you can do it with a 60, but think so. For the third rap, use the anchors that you saw off to your right while climbing the second pitch.