5.8 PG13,
Trad, 105 ft (32 m),
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Greg Barnes, George Ridgley, 8/2012
California
> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
> Medlicott Dome
> W Face, Right
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Delicate knobby flake that leads to cool but a bit vegetated corner which thins and disappears (at the anchor). The climbing is not hard, but with a combination of potentially fragile knobs plus thin cams behind a not-super-bomber flake, this is a somewhat serious lead with an "alpine" feel.
Location
Start up the easy start of the 5.7 flakes approach to You Asked For It/Lechlinski Flake/Swinger (about 100' down and left from Ciebola), then head up the left-facing flake above. There are more flakes to the left, this is the first one you can get to.
Protection
Pro to 2" plus 3-4" cams for easy approach climbing (giant flake). Extra thin finger-finger cams for flake. Two bolt anchor. Use a 70m rope to lower, although it's probably possible to carefully rappel a bit right with a 60m.