PRINT: Climb Feel The Pinch, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth

Feel The Pinch

V5, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 97 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > * Bouldering in… > Forestland Boul… > Busted Boulder

Access Issue: Day Use Only/No Campfires Details

Day use only and no campfires in the Forestland/Barney's Rubble parking area and vicinity.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

Start on the rail on the right, and work up left to the super-condition dependent pinch and the nice sharp right-hand gaston. Power up, in control and slightly to the left, to a left-facing jug rail.
Totally amazing. Great movement. Tensiony and technical.
I thought it was harder than Cruise Control, but it was pretty hot. One the best in the area.

Location

Around the corner to the right from The Shield, Bedroom Bully, Drill Sergeant. The eponymous pinch is in the middle of a vertical but gently scooped-out feature on the face. Just left of Fiend It, and Busted.

Protection

2-3 pads. Kind of a funky landing so a spotter for the last few moves and top out would be nice.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nils pulling on to Feel the Pinch

Early in Feel the Pinch!

Direction of movement on Feel the Pinch.

Feelin' the pinch, the gaston, and the dampness... It's all good though as these holds, the movement, the setting is fantastic! Do this bloc!!!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

blakeherrington

Some Leavenworth V4s feel like V6. This one and the Fridge Right take the cakes for hardest of the grade in town. Dec 16, 2014

Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA

V4+

take solace in the fact that you can reach the pinch from the ground with a brush Oct 25, 2017

Jeremy Tremblay

youtube.com/watch?v=L3Oqz74…

Goes like clockwork with the proper sequence. One of three ways done on a send train starting at 4'10" and ending at 5'11". Nov 11, 2018

Michael Brady
Wenatchee, WA

youtube.com/watch?v=nFwMqQl… Apr 6, 2021

Jenna Kwon
Seattle, WA

5"5" lady beta

youtube.com/watch?v=ZlgNLAG… May 31, 2022

Yuval B
Leavenworth, WA

On cold crisp days V3, V8 otherwise. Definitely a bit harder with the broken foothold Jun 20, 2022