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Routes in Deception Wall

Black Market S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Deliverance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Der Ailed, derailed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jiffy Pop S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Dessert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Vida Locamotive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Late for Dinner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Milwaukee Road S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overture, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rat Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Dish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Underground Economy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Underture, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Won't Get Fooled Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 946 total, 17/month
Shared By: jdberndt on Jun 9, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Starts on the left side of Deception Wall. Climbs up very easy (5.7?) terrain to reach an intermediate 2-bolt anchor. Traverse right 10ft to a bolt with a short chain. Pull some burly moves through 20ft of overhanging and somewhat broken rock.

Protection

12? bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
davidbarton
  5.10+
davidbarton  
  5.10+
The top section of this is overhanging and sustained. Great moves. Definitely "burly." Jun 1, 2015
rustin
Issaquah WA
  5.10+
rustin   Issaquah WA
  5.10+
The first half of this route is called "Der," the 5.7 you are describing the "lower half", and the second upper half is called "ailed," 10+ and the complete is "Derailed." 5 clips to first chain anchors, 13 clips to top chain anchors on ledge above overhang. Jun 13, 2014
Johan
San Francisco, CA
Johan   San Francisco, CA
I'm pretty sure Late for Dinner is the 11a to the left of Just Dessert, up on the ledge that can be approached by hiking around. The 10c approach to Late for Dinner is "Side Dish", listed here as part of "Side Dish + Just Dessert".

I think I saw the route you're describing here yesterday, that starts up very easy terrain (5.6? 5.5?) and then heads through the overhang, where a bolt has a chain extension. Would you say it goes at 11a? Looked cool, but don't know the name or grade. May 2, 2014