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Routes in 4 - Superfly Sector

100 Degrees of Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Betamorphosis S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broken Biscuit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Entertain with Ease S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Grawlix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hopeless Romantic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Last Call S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Petrichor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Superfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What's-it-Called S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: FA: Alex Kirkpatrick EQP: Alex Kirkpatrick, Vince Bates
Page Views: 848 total · 13/month
Shared By: Alex Kirkpatrick on Jun 8, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Wildy varied and unique climbing up great stone with huge exposure make this the best hard route at The Dry and possibly one of the best in the Tucson area. Climb some fun rock down low up to a miniature ships prow. Brave the dynamic and stormy seas above to a no hands rest at the low ledge. Prepare yourself physically and mentally and traverse out over the brink through big moves and bullet stone. Meander through technical terrain until a thorny rose move spits you into the powerful crux. Chalk up (if you can) and battle your way through a brutal sidepull slap sequence that is one of the coolest boulder problems I've done on a rope. Gather yourself and re-commit: a techy face problem culminating in a desperate dyno brings you to a good jug. Contemplate your sweaty palms and utter solitude before casting off to the chains.

Location

Just to the right of Super Fly and to the left of Betamorphosis before reaching the Bee Cave

Protection

10 bolts

Photos

Luis Cisneros
Tucson
 
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
 
Great job Alex. This is a PHENOMENAL climb!!! Jun 10, 2013
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
OK, so what gives?

We got a 4 star quality rating and a 1 star quality rating?? Oct 15, 2013
Alex Kirkpatrick  
  5.13
I guess Eric thought this route was so bad he didnt even have to climb it. Oct 18, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Nope, I don't even need to look at them I can just tell that they are one star from the post on MP.com. Once again, it looks like I may have inadvertently clicked on the star quality thingy on the page. Oct 18, 2013

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