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Routes in North Canyon - Sleeping Turtle Rock

First Thought Best Thought S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mock Turtle S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Never Cry Wolf S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Not Always So S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route Rot TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Triangle of Darkness TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
ZMBM S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: 2011
Page Views: 452 total, 8/month
Shared By: applewood on Jun 7, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

FIRST THOUGHT, BEST THOUGHT 5.8 *** 90' F (10b)
This was the first route bolted at Whistler Canyon. A bouldery start leads to excellent, varied and sustained climbing punctuated with good rests. Climb the middle of the face directly below and left of the pine tree. 2 chain anchors on top (beside the large pine). You may want to take a large (#3) cam to place between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, but it's not essential.

Location

On the first open wall on the left side of the North Canyon, climb the middle of the face directly below the pine tree on top.

Protection

fixed (10 bolts)

Photos

Steve Quick
Hines, OR
 
Steve Quick   Hines, OR
 
Need to be careful with rope location right below chains as there is a spot where the rope can easily get jammed in a crack. Best to keep ropes off to either side instead of dead on. These routes don't get climbed much either and there is loose rock, especially at the top, Apr 19, 2016
geomark
Okanogan, WA
  5.8
geomark   Okanogan, WA
  5.8
FUN climb! Mixed up climbing from slanting ledges near the bottom to sustained vertical straight up face and a little stemming higher up. I very fun climb. Sun in the morning. Oct 7, 2013