The Direct Route
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in South Side
|Beside the Point S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Beyond the Pale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Direct Route, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|No Exit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|On Point S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Out of the Blue S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Turning Point S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wind Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||45 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||applewood on Jun 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionTHE DIRECT ROUTE 5.10b ** 175 (or 2 pitch) M (11b)
Climbs a direct line up the middle of the face from the lowest point on the lower buttress to a rap/belay station on the huge ledge half way up to the top chain anchors - can be done in one pitch or two. (Better to rap the route than lower over the sharp edge on top).
P1 5.7 * 80 F (6b) Broken easy rock on the lower face leads to some interesting face climbing before the big ledge (2 ring anchors).
P2 5.10b ** 95 M (5b) Continue up the corner from the belay ledge, and climb on sound rock directly through the obvious weaknesses to the top (2 chain anchors). At least a #3 and .5 cam are needed to protect the initial (crux) corner.