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> Permission Wall
Permission Granted
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Permission Wall
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Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elwood P. Dowd S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harvey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Permission Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toprope TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wounded Knee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Montgomery, Clayton Laramie |
| Page Views: | 232 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Holliday on Jun 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from Feb. 1 - Aug. 1.
- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- Park View Dome
- Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall
- Lion's Head
- The Ranch Hand
- Park View Dome
- Sawmill Crags
- Rough Neck Wall
- Black Creek Wall
Description
This is a fun route on the right side of Permission Wall. The first pitch starts below a slanting hand crack towards the right side of the wall. Aim for this, and then head up and left towards a slanting finger crack (easily seen from the ground). Make crux moves to get past the finger crack and climb more easily to a good ledge. There's a bit of a runout before the finger crack and then after the crux but on easier climbing.
The second pitch goes up near a black water streak above the ledge. There's a wide chimney in the way, so move the belay across it at a big chockstone. Climb up to a big ledge and belay there on a gear anchor.
(Note: route name and first ascent info obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
The second pitch goes up near a black water streak above the ledge. There's a wide chimney in the way, so move the belay across it at a big chockstone. Climb up to a big ledge and belay there on a gear anchor.
(Note: route name and first ascent info obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
Location
The route starts near the right side of Permission Wall. Look for a slanting hand crack maybe 15 feet up and start below it.
One can top out on Meadow Dome, scramble and then walk to the north, and then head down the trail for the Tan Corridor. We sniffed our way over to a ledge atop the sport routes at the Tan Corridor and rappelled off one of the anchors after belaying one another down a few moves to get to it.
One can top out on Meadow Dome, scramble and then walk to the north, and then head down the trail for the Tan Corridor. We sniffed our way over to a ledge atop the sport routes at the Tan Corridor and rappelled off one of the anchors after belaying one another down a few moves to get to it.
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