Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dave Montgomery, Clayton Laramie
Page Views: 873 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jun 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details


This is a fun route on in the middle of the Permission Wall. The first pitch starts below a slanting hand crack towards the right side of the wall. Aim for this, and then head up and left towards a slanting finger crack (easily seen from the ground). Make crux moves to get past the finger crack and climb more easily to a good ledge. There's a bit of a runout before the finger crack and then after the crux but on easier climbing.

The second pitch goes up near a black water streak above the ledge. There's a wide chimney in the way, so move the belay across it at a big chockstone. Climb up to a big ledge and belay there on a gear anchor.

(Note: route name and first ascent info obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)


The route starts near the center of the Permission Wall. Look for a slanting hand crack maybe 15 feet up and start below it roughly 50 ft up hill from the route Elwood P. Dowd.

One can top out on Meadow Dome, scramble and then walk to the north, and then head down the trail for the Tan Corridor. We sniffed our way over to a ledge atop the sport routes at the Tan Corridor and rappelled off one of the anchors after belaying one another down a few moves to get to it.


Standard rack to #3 Camalot. A small cam may be useful at the crux. No bolts or fixed anchors.