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Routes in Permission Wall
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Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elwood P. Dowd S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harvey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Permission Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rendition on Permission T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Toprope TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wounded Knee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Montgomery, Clayton Laramie |
| Page Views: | 873 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Holliday on Jun 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a fun route on in the middle of the Permission Wall. The first pitch starts below a slanting hand crack towards the right side of the wall. Aim for this, and then head up and left towards a slanting finger crack (easily seen from the ground). Make crux moves to get past the finger crack and climb more easily to a good ledge. There's a bit of a runout before the finger crack and then after the crux but on easier climbing.
The second pitch goes up near a black water streak above the ledge. There's a wide chimney in the way, so move the belay across it at a big chockstone. Climb up to a big ledge and belay there on a gear anchor.
(Note: route name and first ascent info obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
The second pitch goes up near a black water streak above the ledge. There's a wide chimney in the way, so move the belay across it at a big chockstone. Climb up to a big ledge and belay there on a gear anchor.
(Note: route name and first ascent info obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
Location
The route starts near the center of the Permission Wall. Look for a slanting hand crack maybe 15 feet up and start below it roughly 50 ft up hill from the route Elwood P. Dowd.
One can top out on Meadow Dome, scramble and then walk to the north, and then head down the trail for the Tan Corridor. We sniffed our way over to a ledge atop the sport routes at the Tan Corridor and rappelled off one of the anchors after belaying one another down a few moves to get to it.
One can top out on Meadow Dome, scramble and then walk to the north, and then head down the trail for the Tan Corridor. We sniffed our way over to a ledge atop the sport routes at the Tan Corridor and rappelled off one of the anchors after belaying one another down a few moves to get to it.
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