Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Joe Olonia, Frank White, late 1960s
Page Views: 670 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 6, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

For an easy 1-pitch climb in the Sandias, the SE Corner (SE Ridge) has it all: great exposure, fun moves, and a wonderful summit. (Seriously. I can't think of many individual pitches 5.7 or under in the Sandias that are as good as this one.)

From the west side of the Cake and Candle, climb up to the notch between the two towers. The Candle is to your left. Start on the Candle by hand traversing to its right-hand edge. Follow the crack system on the exposed arete, passing 2 pitons. There are a couple of loose blocks to be careful with. An awkward mantle near the top is the crux, maybe a little hard for the grade and hard to climb with dignity. Easy from there to the tiny summit. Downclimb the last 10' to the rappel anchor.

Rappel down the south face from a slung block (90') and/or a bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" or 4". [Bolts have been added to this climb since I posted it. I haven't climbed it since, but apparently not very much trad gear is needed any more. Aug 2015]

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