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SE Ridge

5.6 PG13, Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Northwest Region > Missoula Area > Canyon Peak

Description

This route follows the left skyline of Canyon Peak when viewed from the lakes below. Follow the trail to the lower lake(6 miles), from here make your way up to the upper lake on a faint user trail (north of the lake). Look for the couloir that splits the SE ridge, use this feature to scramble up to the ridge crest. Scramble toward the peak along the low angle ridge, about halfway to the summit a notch is encountered and the angle of the rock increases. If you choose to rope up this is a good spot. Follow the ridge crest to the top of the peak. To descend rap off to the south and scramble back down the couloir or down-climb the north face route until a series of rappel stations are reached.

Protection

light alpine rack, possibly an ice axe for early season

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P1 of the SE ridge route
[Hide Photo] P1 of the SE ridge route
View of peak from the lake, the SE ridge route ascends the couloir to the left of the peak
[Hide Photo] View of peak from the lake, the SE ridge route ascends the couloir to the left of the peak

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brendan H
TN
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Climbed with E.S. the day after my 21st birthday. Certainly glad to have crampons and axe for the gully this early in the season. Techy section of ridge is narrow with relatively few route-finding options. Pro was good albeit lichen covered. Encountered twelve foot featureless slab on route, closer to 5.9 friction climbing (in mountain boots!). I found the n ridge to be more enjoyable. Jul 11, 2020