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Routes in Permission Wall

Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elwood P. Dowd S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Harvey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Permission Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toprope TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jason Haas, Dave Montgomery, Mike Sheridan
Page Views: 132 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jun 5, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is a fun route that we thought was harder than it looks. Start by climbing past a bolt and making crux moves into a shallow finger crack. Climb more easily past an overlap and then to a headwall with three bolts. We thought there was another crux between the second and third bolt on the headwall, but your mileage may vary. After the third bolt, climb more easily up to a large ledge on which a belay anchor can be built.

(Note: the route name and first ascentionists were obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)

Location

This is located towards the left side of the Permission Wall. The start can be found by locating a bolt right below a shallow finger crack.

To descend after topping out, unrope and walk to the left over to a good ledge that overlooks the Tan Corridor. You'll find a rappel anchor; descend down to the trail from there.

Protection

Four bolts and gear. We used small (purple C3) to a #3 Camalot. Gear can be placed between the bolts on the headwall if desired. Build your own anchor with gear before scrambling over to the descent.

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Alex Andrews
  5.10+ PG13
Alex Andrews  
  5.10+ PG13
Fun climb with trad crux at the start and sport crux up higher, BUT I think the sport crux is PG-13/R. Falling before you clip the upper bolt would a BAD DAY, 3 people think that! Mar 12, 2015
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
Awesome route! A few medium-sized cams and nuts supplement the bolts well, and a large boulder on the left side of the ledge up top can be slung for an anchor. The climbing through the headwall is brilliant, don't miss this one! Nov 2, 2014