Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Hobbit Hole

5.7, Trad,  Avg: 3.2 from 69 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > Hanging Gardens

Description

Yet another variation start to the first pitch of Hanging Gardens. The Hobbit Hole is like nothing else you'll do at Broughton Bluff. Start by ducking under and into the detached dihedrals just to the right of the Hanging Gardens direct start. The hardest section is at the beginning due to the tightness of the chimney and the lack of light. Wiggle your way up about twenty feet until you pop out of the chimney and into the light at which point you’ll be just below the p1 anchor. The Hobbit Hole is readily protectable although I think that most will forgo protection.

Protection

Standard rack of singles, though it's just going to get in the way.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Found a strange piece of fixed gear on the route. Removed what I think is an old nut and it seems very precious.
[Hide Photo] Found a strange piece of fixed gear on the route. Removed what I think is an old nut and it seems very precious.
Dave entering the Hobbit Hole.
[Hide Photo] Dave entering the Hobbit Hole.
Having fun.<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Having fun.
Amy in the Hobbit Hole.
[Hide Photo] Amy in the Hobbit Hole.
Apparently this is the face I make when I'm having fun and confused.
[Hide Photo] Apparently this is the face I make when I'm having fun and confused.
The start can been seen slightly right of center at the bottom of the of the photo.<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] The start can been seen slightly right of center at the bottom of the of the photo.
from the top looking down
[Hide Photo] from the top looking down
repel station
[Hide Photo] repel station
The habit hole entrance
[Hide Photo] The habit hole entrance

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Super fun! Jul 30, 2013
Evan Pierce
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Some of the most fun I've had in recent memory, placed a .75 and a numbah 4, although probably could've done without the latter. Jun 19, 2016
Birdie Richards
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Very fun! A nice break if you're having a stressful climbing day, this route usually makes everyone laugh. Jun 2, 2020
Spencer Edgren
Vancouver, WA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Really unique route for the area, and a lot of fun! Shorty but a goody. BD #1-3 could all be used, but also kind of gets in the way. Apr 25, 2021
Oscar Edge
Pullman, Wa
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb. I wouldn't bring gear Jul 22, 2021
ethan parra
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] placed a 5 3 2 1 and 0.75 super fun but tight if you feel confident don't bring gear Dec 15, 2023
Ian Bloom
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Did NOT expect the cave to be as cool as it is. Jun 16, 2025