Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Wet Dream

5.9+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 132 votes
FA: John Fisk and Tish Nakia
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho

Description

A long, left-leaning, left-facing corner.

Looking from below, you might think the climbing was fairly monotonous. But actually, you can use all sorts of methods to get up it, and there are quite a few face holds on the left wall to get rests, particularly near the bottom.

The crux is probably near the top, just above where the horizontal crack cuts right.

The top has a two-bolt chained anchor.

Location

Look for the obvious, long left-facing corner just right of Eraserhead (the bolted face right off the ground).

Protection

Gear to 4". A few finger-sized stoppers, and lots of cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It is easier to layback the top section, though one can reach way back inside for good hand jams.
[Hide Photo] It is easier to layback the top section, though one can reach way back inside for good hand jams.
Near the top of Wet Dream (5.9).
[Hide Photo] Near the top of Wet Dream (5.9).
Nice hand jams and footholds near the bottom of Wet Dream (5.9).
[Hide Photo] Nice hand jams and footholds near the bottom of Wet Dream (5.9).
The view from near the top of Wet Dream (5.9).
[Hide Photo] The view from near the top of Wet Dream (5.9).
Starts out thin and get wide at eve end
[Hide Photo] Starts out thin and get wide at eve end
Looking down while climbing Wet Dream.
[Hide Photo] Looking down while climbing Wet Dream.
Wet Dream.
[Hide Photo] Wet Dream.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Douglas Taylor
[Hide Comment] First Ascent: John Fisk and Tish Nakia Jul 13, 2013
Jessica T
Bothell, wa
 
[Hide Comment] Also fun to traverse into the top pitch of magic fern at the horizontal right below the chimney. Aug 11, 2013
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I think this might just be the funnest, most classic one-pitch 5.9 at Index. The pitch has lots of little rests, and it helps to use a variety of methods. Aug 12, 2013
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I did some cleaning of this route a couple of years ago, ferns, moss, lots of dirt and loose rocks in the crack, and it still sheds dirt out of the crack which is a giant shield that goes through to Magic Fern. I would like to clear out the top out as well, so many projects.
I agree with Jon, this is a great 5.9, also Battered Sandwich too.
I seem to remember going up to the Magic fern anchor a few years back, now there is a SS anchor. Dec 15, 2013
JRD
[Hide Comment] Nice to have double 3's if you've got 'em. Jul 20, 2015
Ben Pontecorvo
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] This route is pretty fun- agree with the two 3s suggestion. I struggled at the beginning of the chimney flare, jamming the crack with right shoulder in- I switched to left hand in crack and back on wall and it was so much better. Bottom was wet but doable. Jul 6, 2018
Caroline Yearwood
Washington
[Hide Comment] a BD #4 is nice to have for right below the OW. don't need anything bigger, because the OW can be protected with smaller cams in the back of the crack Jul 5, 2022